Last Saturday, we spent an enthralling day at Château Coutet in Saint-Emilion to learn all about the work and the choices the winemaker takes in the cellar to ferment, age, and blend the wine before it is ready for bottling. As we were to learn there is much more to do than you might think and a multitude of tools and techniques that the winemaker can pick from to influence the structure, taste and aromatic depth of the wine.
The day was split into several different workshops to explore different aspects of wine-making and wine tasting. In the fermentation hall, Alain David-Beaulieu, the winemaker at Château Coutet, explained how the grapes were received at harvest time and the work carried out during the maceration and fermentation phases.
He showed us the old press that has been used at the winery for over 100 years to press the marc left in the bottom of the vats after racking the wines. This gives the press wine that is aged separately, and held in reserve to be used if needed later on in the wine-making process.
Once the fermentation has finished, some of the lots of different grape varietals are pre-blended, and transferred into oak barrels. A mixture of new and old barrels that have already been used to make one or two wines are used at the winery, and Alain explained the role that the oak barrels play in wine-making. He talked about the work in the barrel room to stir the lees, top up the wine lost to the angel’s share, and the monitoring of the wines over time.
Before tasting the wines, we participated in a fun workshop that put our sense of smell to the test. We had to identify some of the aromas that can be found in wine, and learnt which ones were due to the grape varietal or terroir, and which were the result of being aged in oak.
In the fermentation hall, we gathered around some barrels for the wine tasting and wine blending workshop. First, we blind tasted three different wines, and had to identify which was the merlot, which the cabernet franc and which the malbec. Once we had learnt what characteristics each of these grape varietals displayed, we then had a go at blending them to see how the wine changes as the percentages of each grape varietal vary.
We then blind tasted three other 2017 wines that had just finished the fermentation process. Exactly the same wine but one which was being aged in the vat, one in an old oak barrel, and one in a new oak barrel. The wines had only been put into the barrels a couple of weeks ago, but already it was possible to taste the difference between the wines.
After this full morning, we had worked up a good appetite! Before sitting down to lunch we refreshed our palates with the Clairet, a deep-coloured rosé wine that is made by drawing off some of the wine at the beginning of the maceration process.
Over lunch of Landaise duck confit salad, skewered steak with Bordelaise sauce, potato gratin and vegetables, cheese, and café gourmand, we tasted the 2014 and 2015 vintages of the Château Coutet Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, and the Château Belles-Cimes 2014, the winery’s second wine.
The conversation flowed over lunch, and we listened intently to the wonderful story of the Cuvée Emeri. When cleaning out the family cellar, Alain stumbled across an old bottle of wine buried in the earth floor. The bottle was still full and had been closed with a glass stopper in the shape of a heart. After having had the bottle analysed, it is estimated that it dates from around 1750, making it one of the oldest bottles of wine in the world! Alain’s nephew, Adrien David-Beaulieu, then had the idea to try and recreate the wine as closely as possible using the oldest vines in the vineyard. These vines are nurtured manually, the heavier work of tilling the soil done by horse. The grapes are then hand-picked and sorted by hand, berry by berry. The resulting wine is then put into hand-blown bottles that are made individually by one of France’s leading master glass blowers. And the stopper is of course also made of glass in the shape of a heart, just like the original. It took four years for the master wine blower to successfully recreate the liquid and airproof bottle!
After lunch, we walked up onto the plateau where the vines stretch across to the village of Saint-Emilion, less than a kilometre away. This is the most prestigious area for the Saint-Emilion vineyards and is where the Gourmet Odyssey adopted vines are to be found. We took a few minutes to take some pictures and enjoy the surrounding scenery. On the way we talked about the different terroir and work currently being carried out to prune the vines and attach the remaining branches to the training wires.
Back at the winery, we then talked about how the wine is prepared for bottling and bottled. We debated the use of sulphites, and talked about the choice of corks used. We then went into the store and saw the machine in action that puts the capsules and labels on the bottles just before they are ready for consumption.
And so the day drew to a close. We’d learnt a great deal, and saw just how varied and complex the life of a winemaker is. We’ll now have to be patient as our wine slowly ages, but the wait for our personalised bottles will be surely worth it! Many thanks to Alain and Juliette at Château Coutet, and to all of the participants for making this such a great day!
